Application of Sacha Inchi Oil and Deterpenated Nutmeg Oil as Natural Antiaging in Facial Cream Formulation

Abstract

Sacha inchi oil (Plukenetia volubilis L.) is rich in essential nutrients such as omega-3 fatty acids (α-linolenic acid), omega-6 (linoleic acid), omega-9 (oleic acid) and vitamin E (α-tocopherol and δ-tocopherol) which acts as a good skin barrier and reduces skin inflammation due to UV exposure. On the other hand, deterpenated nutmeg oil was reported to have antioxidant activity (IC50) stronger than native nutmeg oil. This study aims to utilize sacha inchi oil and deterpenated nutmeg oil as natural antiaging in facial cream formulations. Before used, sacha inchi oil is subjected to chemical glycerolysis to improve consumer acceptance. The physic-chemical properties between sacha inchi native oil and after pre-treatment were not significantly different. However, the hedonic test showed that the glycerolysis pre-treatment at 80°C had a better acceptance than native sacha inchi oil. The facial cream formulation used 5% sacha inchi oil and 1% deterpenated nutmeg oil with 1 - 5% niacinamide. All formulations showed oil in water (o/w) emulsion type. Facial cream with 5% niacinamide was the best formulation based on the hedonic test. It has a pH of 7.58, spreadability of 5.51 cm, and globule size of 7.11 μm.